Ranie Saidi’s Malaysian-inspired feast places leeks in two very different roles: they soften into a coconut-rich chicken gulai, and they add sweetness and texture to crisp potato-and-pea bergedil. The first dish is spooned over steamed white rice; the second is served with an orange-chili yogurt dip.

Saidi moved from Malaysia to London more than a decade ago and gradually began using leeks in everyday cooking. Saidi compares their mild sweetness to banana shallots and uses them to soften into the gulai sauce. In Saidi’s distinction between the two dishes, coconut is the dominant element in gulai, while spices take the leading role in kari, or curry.

Bergedil are also known as begedil or perkedel and are sold as street food in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. A common Malay version combines mashed potato with minced meat before shaping and frying. Saidi instead adds leeks, frozen peas and herbs, then pairs the patties with an orange, chili and yogurt dip. They can accompany noodles or fried rice and can be frozen for later cooking.

A coconut-led chicken gulai

Prep 15 minutes | Marinate 15 minutes | Cook 45 minutes | Serves 3–4

Ingredients

  • 1 tbsp ground coriander
  • 1 tsp salt
  • ½ tsp ground turmeric
  • ½ tbsp mild or hot curry powder
  • 1 tbsp vegetable oil
  • 6–8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (1 kg)
  • Steamed white rice, to serve

For the gulai

  • 1 leek (100g), trimmed, white and green parts finely sliced
  • 2½ cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
  • 5–8 fresh or frozen makrut lime leaves, roughly torn
  • 3–4 bird’s eye chilies, 1 chopped, the rest lightly bashed
  • ½ tbsp ground turmeric
  • 2 tbsp tamarind paste
  • 200 ml coconut cream
  • 1 large floury potato (200g), cut into wedges
  • Salt and black pepper

Method

  1. Combine the coriander, salt, turmeric, curry powder and tablespoon of oil in a bowl. Rub this mixture over the chicken thighs and let them stand for 10–15 minutes.
  2. Heat a large nonstick pan over medium heat. Place the thighs in it with the skin against the pan and cook for about seven minutes without moving them. Once the skin has browned, turn them for another three minutes, then set them aside on a plate or rack.
  3. Add 250 ml of water to the marinade bowl, loosening the spices left on its sides. Keep the rendered chicken fat in the pan and use it to cook the sliced leek, ginger, lime leaves and all the chilies for three to five minutes. Add a little water if needed to prevent the mixture becoming dry.
  4. Tip the reserved spiced water into the pan. Mix in the turmeric, tamarind paste and coconut cream, bringing the sauce to a gentle simmer.
  5. Place the chicken back in the sauce with the potato wedges. Cover, lower the heat and simmer for 15–20 minutes, checking that the chicken is fully cooked and the potatoes have softened.
  6. Adjust the salt and pepper. Serve the thighs and potatoes with steamed white rice and spoon the coconut sauce over them.

Leek and pea bergedil with orange-chili dip

The patties can be served plain for a milder dish or with the orange-chili dip. The recipe makes 15 and provides enough for five to seven people alongside other food.

Prep 15 minutes | Cook 45 minutes | Makes 15, to serve 5–7

Ingredients

  • 3 large floury potatoes (650g), halved and unpeeled
  • 1 tsp salt, plus extra for cooking the potatoes
  • Vegetable oil, for cooking the leeks and for frying
  • 2 leeks (200g), trimmed, white and green parts finely sliced
  • 200g frozen peas
  • 10g fresh cilantro, finely chopped
  • 10g fresh mint, finely chopped
  • 5g fresh dill, finely chopped
  • 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
  • Noodles or rice, to serve (optional)

For frying

  • 200–400 ml vegetable oil
  • 3 tbsp cornstarch (cornflour)
  • 2 large eggs, beaten

For the orange-chili dip

  • 80 ml fresh orange juice with pulp
  • 2 tbsp sweet soy sauce
  • 1 garlic clove, peeled
  • 1 bird’s eye chili
  • 5g fresh cilantro
  • 2 tbsp Greek yogurt

Method

  1. Cover the halved potatoes with one liter of salted water in a large saucepan. Bring to the boil, then cook for 10–15 minutes until a fork enters easily. In a separate deep frying pan, heat two tablespoons of oil over medium heat and cook the leeks for three to five minutes. When they soften and their edges color lightly, remove the pan from the heat.
  2. Set aside around 60g, or three tablespoons, of the fried leeks for the dip and wipe the frying pan clean. Drain the potatoes and mash them in their saucepan. Mix in the remaining cooked leeks, peas, cilantro, mint and dill, then season.
  3. Divide the mixture into portions of about 50g. With clean hands, roll each portion and flatten it into a small patty, arranging the patties on a tray. After cooling completely, they may be frozen for up to two months; thaw them thoroughly in the refrigerator before cooking.
  4. Add enough oil to the cleaned deep frying pan to reach approximately 2 cm deep. Heat over medium heat to 180C/350F. Without a thermometer, small bubbles forming around a wooden-spoon handle dipped into the oil indicate that it is ready.
  5. Prepare separate bowls of cornstarch and beaten egg. Dust each patty lightly with cornstarch, remove the excess and coat it with egg.
  6. Cook four or five patties at a time for two to three minutes, turning once halfway through, until both sides are golden. Avoid crowding the pan and transfer each batch to kitchen paper to drain.
  7. Blend the orange juice, sweet soy sauce, garlic, chili, cilantro and the reserved fried leeks in a food processor. Stir the yogurt into the blended mixture and add salt if required.
  8. Serve the patties warm with the dip on the side, adding noodles or rice if desired.

Saidi is the author of The Malay Cook: Everyday Malaysian Recipes from Grandma’s Kitchen to Mine, published by Ryland Peters & Small at £25.

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